Here's a primer on how to take reliable digital images of your work. The primer is written by AJAS artist Greg Larson. We think you'll find it of great help.
Digital Photography and Color Balancing Tutorial for Painters (Print Version) By Greg Larson www.greglarson.net
After many years and hundreds of dollars spent using the hit-or-miss method of flat work, slide documentation for my paintings, I have finally entered the digital arena. Gone are the days of balancing light with film, shooting, bracketing and developing only to find out I had just wasted 80% of my film just to get a couple acceptable shots. Initially there was a learning curve here as well but I have finally narrowed it down to a fairly streamlined process.
You should always try to do most of the work in your camera. Currently I use a fairly inexpensive Sony DSC-P200 7.2 MP point-and-shoot for digital submissions. While it is inadequate for giclee or printing requirements, it does a more than satisfactory job for documentation.
I have experimented with many different lighting scenarios ranging from daylight to tungsten and the cheapest, most consistent lighting I have found is to use four 100 watt Halogen flood lights. Put these into contractor-grade, utility work lamp shrouds with good solid spring clamps on them. Clamp these onto stepladders at about a 30º angle from your work and about 4 feet from the surface. Try to keep the lights even and parallel to your work
The result of this is a fairly even dispersion of light, however, some adjustment may be necessary to eliminate “hot spots”.
If you are using an easel to prop up your work, that is great, but if you work large you may have to get creative. I use an old stair stepping machine to hold paintings up to 5 feet wide off the floor to accommodate the following step. It is the most exercise this machine has seen in years.
IMPORTANT STEP #1
Include the Gray Card in your photograph!!! While you may get your lighting spot-on the first time, chances are something will be off. This one step will save you hours of bleary-eyed aggravation trying to correct your colors.
IMPORTANT STEP #2
Adjust your setting on your camera for Incandescent Light. It is usually represented by the icon that looks like a light bulb. This is important. AUTO does not cut it.
Now, set your camera on the tripod. Make sure your picture is square. Use the timer to shoot so you avoid camera shake.
On to the next step.
The Digital Darkroom
I have several versions of Photoshop but for this explanation I will use Elements 2.0 because it is small, inexpensive and ubiquitous.
1. Insert your memory card into the card reader or connect your USB cable to access the camera directly. You should see a separate drive come up. 2. Open Photoshop. Go to File > Open > Look in: then locate the photo you wish to work on and click OK. 3. When your image is uploaded to Photoshop click Enhance > Adjust Brightness/Contrast > Levels
4. You will now see chart that looks like a mountain with three triangles on the bottom. On the lower right of the screen you will see three boxes each with an image of an eyedropper. Select the middle one. This is your Gray Balance Adjustment. You will see the arrow turn into an eyedropper. Move the eyedropper to your photograph and place it directly over the Gray Card on the bottom of the picture (remember I told you this was important). Click. Suddenly you will see all your colors normalize. 5. Next, on the bottom of the graph you see three triangles. Take your arrow and move the one on the right to where it meets the right edge of the mountain. This adjusts your White Balance. 6. Double check that the triangle on the left touches the left edge of the mountain. This adjusts your Black Balance. 7. Now move the triangle in the center to where the value is close to where you want it. This adjusts the Mid-tones. 1.00 is normal but sometimes differences in websites and monitors can cause things to darken. In this instance you may need to compensate by lightening these mid-tones but be careful not to overcompensate because things will get washed out. 8. Click OK. 9. Go to the Tool Menu and select Crop. Crop just to the edge of your painting cutting out the Gray Card in the process. Push Enter. 10. Finally, resize the image. Select Image > Resize > Image Size. Here you can adjust the file size. On the top of the screen where it says Pixel Dimensions, change the largest number to 600 pixels. This is what AJAS requires. Make sure the Constrain Proportions box is checked and everything will stay in proportion. Check to see that the Resolution is at 72 and click OK.
You know the rest of the drill. Save your image as a JPEG and make sure you can find it again so you can attach it to your email.
This method, while not nearly as involved or detailed as is required for print specifications will result in good color resolution and will only set you back about $60 excluding the aforementioned items you should have at home. That, my friends, is a real bargain. ______________________________________________________________________________ Back to Instructions For Artists